Neurocosmetics: hype about new creams that work on the brain

A serum that brightens the mood? A face mask that lets the wearer sleep more restfully? Or how about an essential oil that stimulates the production of endorphins in the brain? All of these products belong to a new hype category called neurocosmetics, which is finding more and more buyers, particularly in the USA - where products are often easier to approve (or do not require approval in the first place) than in the European Union.

1.8 square meters of marketing space

The basic idea is that the skin, with its surface area of around 1.8 square meters, is not only the largest organ in the body, but is also ideally suited to the introduction of active ingredients. Medicine has known this for many years. Pain patients receive long-acting opioids via patches - or smokers withdraw from nicotine. The skin protects us, but it is also permeable. And start-ups in the field of neurocosmetics want to take advantage of this.

The start-up Murad, for example, claims that the skincare routine can also serve to improve brain function. In addition, constant inflammation of the skin, which the products are designed to counteract, could influence diseases such as Alzheimer's, diabetes or cardiovascular disorders. "Your body is made up of interconnected systems, which means that taking care of one system has a positive effect on the whole body."

Skin care products are a "layer of protection". "At the same time, skincare also sends calming messages to your nervous, immune and hormonal systems." Everything is "neuro" in today's era, Carleton University sociologist Amina Mire told The Atlantic magazine, which recently looked at the trend. A company called CAP Beauty has a "serotonizer" on offer that is said to contain a precursor to serotonin to create a "happier-looking" skin tone.

The company Selfmade, on the other hand, combines moisturizer with a couples therapy book to "cope better with yourself" and "process negative experiences better". Its boss says that the products do not necessarily have long-lasting psychological effects, but at least they help with self-image problems. However, any other form of cosmetics or make-up can also have this effect without carrying the "neuro" label.

Research on animals and cells

Another problem with all these advertising messages is that they have little or no scientific evidence to back them up. Most tests are carried out either on animals or cell cultures. It is different to apply a substance to a cell than to the skin, which does not allow all substances to pass through, cosmetics chemist Kelly Dobos told The Atlantic. In addition, significantly higher concentrations are applied than would be used on humans. This is not realistic. In addition, you can put a "neuro" on virtually any typical cosmetic ingredient, be it the well-known hyaluronic acid, vitamins such as E or C or retinol.

"Some of this is a result of everything that is supposed to be related to mental health these days," neuroscientist Claudia Aguirre told Allure magazine. Of course, good skincare could make you feel better. "You just need to know that they don't actually change your brain." Because for that, the products in question would certainly also need medical approval, including a prescription - which they simply don't have on the cosmetics shelf, even if you buy them from the pharmacy. Young people could also start to correlate skin problems, which go hand in hand with their development and are actually quite normal, with psychological problems, according to the motto: problem skin meets problem brain. Psychologists say that this should be avoided at all costs. Self-realization, however it is carried out, naturally sells well. And the trend is not new either: companies have been marketing CBD oil, for example, as if it had psychotropic properties for years - and it can also be applied to the skin.

(bsc)